{"id":5139,"date":"2015-05-11T21:10:02","date_gmt":"2015-05-11T21:10:02","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/?p=5139"},"modified":"2015-05-11T21:10:02","modified_gmt":"2015-05-11T21:10:02","slug":"sari-salltiku-peligrinazh-dhe-turizem","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/?p=5139","title":{"rendered":"SARI SALLTIKU, PELIGRINAZH DHE TURIZ\u00cbM"},"content":{"rendered":"

Ndue Dedaj<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Mali i Kruj\u00ebs, 1176metra i lart\u00eb, i ka t\u00eb gjitha p\u00ebrmasat, dhe hyjnoren<\/p>\n

e madhnueshme, dhe bukurin\u00eb shk\u00ebmbore t\u00eb thepisur si askund, me nj\u00eb r\u00ebnie pingule<\/p>\n

t\u00eb thikt\u00eb mbi qytet, ku dhe alpinist\u00ebt zor se do t\u00eb mund t\u00eb ngjiteshin e ku gur\u00ebt e m\u00ebdhenj t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb<\/p>\n

fusin frik\u00ebn se mos trand\u00ebn dhe befas i sulen si nj\u00eb \u201cortek\u201d qytetit t\u00eb<\/p>\n

shp\u00ebrndar\u00eb n\u00eb brinjat e malit. Po njer\u00ebzit ndoshta bash p\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb pamje stoike e<\/p>\n

duan malin q\u00eb ndonj\u00ebher\u00eb thirret dhe n\u00eb emrin e Sari Salltikut, po dhe t\u00eb<\/p>\n

Sk\u00ebnderbeut. Nj\u00eb mal kryelart\u00eb me tre emra. T\u00eb merren mendt\u00eb kur e sheh nga<\/p>\n

posht\u00eb-lart, nga qyteti, dhe aq m\u00eb shum\u00eb kur nga maja e tij v\u00ebshtron qytetin si<\/p>\n

n\u00eb p\u00ebll\u00ebmb\u00eb t\u00eb dor\u00ebs, q\u00eb p\u00ebr \u00e7udi t\u00eb duket i rrafsh\u00ebt, gati i b\u00ebr\u00eb nj\u00ebsh me<\/p>\n

fush\u00ebn e detin. \u00cbsht\u00eb lart\u00ebsia q\u00eb i \u201csheshon\u201d t\u00eb gjitha kodrat para vetes, si ta<\/p>\n

kundrosh relievin nga dritarja e avionit. Drejt Sari Salltikut t\u00eb ngjit nj\u00eb<\/p>\n

rrug\u00eb e skalitur n\u00eb gur, gjithkund shpatit t\u00eb malit, e futur n\u00eb gji t\u00eb<\/p>\n

shk\u00ebmbit g\u00eblqeror, e asfaltuar dhe me mbrojt\u00ebse t\u00eb hekurta nga ana e poshtme ku<\/p>\n

gjendet gremina, ndryshe udh\u00ebtimi do t\u00eb ngjante i pamundur, teksa p\u00ebr atje ka<\/p>\n

dhe nj\u00eb rrug\u00eb k\u00ebmb\u00ebsore t\u00eb p\u00ebrpjetave e t\u00ebrthoreve. Maja \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb ballkon<\/p>\n

mahnit\u00ebs dhe p\u00ebr t\u00eb shkuar te shenjti duhet t\u00eb ulesh shkall\u00ebve q\u00eb t\u00eb shpien n\u00eb<\/p>\n

nj\u00eb shpell\u00eb 20 metra t\u00eb thell\u00eb, ku \u00ebsht\u00eb dhe nj\u00eb teqe e vog\u00ebl me shiritat e<\/p>\n

blert\u00eb karakteristik. Njer\u00ebzit prekin gur\u00ebt, falen dhe ndezin qirinj. Nuk mungon<\/p>\n

as rituali i therjes s\u00eb qingjave, q\u00eb turist\u00ebt i blejn\u00eb p\u00ebr drek\u00ebn e shijshme<\/p>\n

familjare n\u00eb lendinat e malit. Ka nj\u00eb pamje mistike i gjith\u00eb dekori dhe kjo prej<\/p>\n

hirit t\u00eb baba Sari Salltikut, q\u00eb pati ardhur n\u00eb Kruj\u00eb n\u00eb mesin e viteve 1300 p\u00ebr<\/p>\n

p\u00ebrhapjen e bektashizmit. Ky shenjtor g\u00ebzon popullaritet t\u00eb madh n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb vend,<\/p>\n

n\u00eb mbar\u00eb bektashinjt\u00eb shqiptar\u00eb e m\u00eb tej. Deri n\u00eb Sari Salltik<\/p>\n

qe ngjitur dhe konsulli fracez De Grand, q\u00eb ashtu si Teodor Ippen e t\u00eb tjer\u00eb i ka p\u00ebrshkruar<\/p>\n

monumentet e k\u00ebtyre vendeve aty kah n\u00ebnt\u00ebqinda. Shenji u \u201crikthye\u201d si t\u00eb gjith\u00eb<\/p>\n

shenjt\u00ebrit e tjer\u00eb pas 90-s, at\u00ebher\u00eb kur Shqip\u00ebria pushoi s\u00eb qeni mburrsh\u00ebm e<\/p>\n

krenisht \u201cvendi i vet\u00ebm ateist n\u00eb bot\u00eb\u201d. At\u00ebher\u00eb u realizua dhe ky memorial i<\/p>\n

shenjt\u00ebris\u00eb s\u00eb tij, p\u00ebr t\u00eb cilin njer\u00ebzit betohen kamot. Besimtar\u00ebt e vjet\u00ebr<\/p>\n

krutan\u00eb nuk e larguan asnj\u00ebher\u00eb shenjtin nga vetja dhe kur feja ishte e<\/p>\n

ndaluar… Pasi kan\u00eb provuar ndjesin\u00eb e misterit t\u00eb fes\u00eb atje brenda, ku \u00ebsht\u00eb<\/p>\n

dhe nj\u00eb krua me uji t\u00eb ftoht\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb shuar etjen, pelegrin\u00ebt shp\u00ebrndahen<\/p>\n

l\u00ebndinave, te Fusha e Mejdanit etj. Blet\u00eb nuk sheh, as zgjoje, por luleve u vjen<\/p>\n

era mjalt\u00eb. Freski e \u00ebmb\u00ebl, pak mjegull dhe nj\u00eb diell q\u00eb her\u00eb fshihet e her\u00eb del<\/p>\n

p\u00ebr t\u2019u par\u00eb me njer\u00ebzit q\u00eb kan\u00eb shtruar \u201csofrat\u201d n\u00eb livadh dhe pjekin mishin n\u00eb<\/p>\n

zgar\u00eb. \u00cbsht\u00eb nj\u00eb fundjav\u00eb q\u00eb ata p\u00ebrher\u00eb e m\u00eb shum\u00eb e kalojn\u00eb k\u00ebtu. Dikush e<\/p>\n

krahason k\u00ebt\u00eb vend me Shna Ndoin e La\u00e7it. Shenjtor\u00ebt, t\u00eb\u00a0 besimeve t\u00eb ndryshme,<\/p>\n

por t\u00eb t\u00eb nj\u00ebjtit Zot, k\u00ebshtu i kan\u00eb pushtuar lart\u00ebsit\u00eb e mundimshme, si p\u00ebr t\u2019i<\/p>\n

th\u00ebn\u00eb njeriut se ato jan\u00eb q\u00ebllimi i jet\u00ebs s\u00eb tij, por q\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u2019i mb\u00ebrritur lyp\u00ebn<\/p>\n

sakrifica. Dikush tjet\u00ebr e krahason me Razm\u00ebn turistike. Sido q\u00eb t\u00eb jet\u00eb, tashm\u00eb<\/p>\n

shqiptar\u00ebt e shijon\u00eb natyr\u00ebn e tyre, e cila dikur reklamohej nga propaganda<\/p>\n

vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr kullotat e blegtorin\u00eb.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Kruja, si krua historie dhe nostalgjie<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Nuk di se nga t\u2019ia fillosh me Kruj\u00ebn, pasi njer\u00ebzit din\u00eb aq shum\u00eb<\/p>\n

p\u00ebr t\u00eb, kush nuk e ka vizituar e par\u00eb n\u00eb dhjet\u00ebra fotografi e filma. Historia<\/p>\n

\u00ebsht\u00eb muza e saj e pavdekshme dhe Heroi Komb\u00ebtar q\u00eb pret e p\u00ebrcjell maje kalit.<\/p>\n

Ndoshta nuk mund t\u00eb ket\u00eb nj\u00eb p\u00ebrfytyrim tjet\u00ebr p\u00ebr Gjergj Kastriotin, vet\u00ebm<\/p>\n

ashtu kaluar n\u00ebp\u00ebr majat e historis\u00eb son\u00eb, po dhe t\u00eb Europ\u00ebs, si nj\u00eb kalor\u00ebs e<\/p>\n

atlet i liris\u00eb, q\u00eb jo m\u00eb kot i ka n\u00eb Muzeun e Vjen\u00ebs shpat\u00ebn dhe p\u00ebrkrenaren.<\/p>\n

Kruj\u00ebn n\u00eb fillim e kemi p\u00ebrjetuar si nj\u00eb \u00ebnd\u00ebrr t\u00eb f\u00ebmij\u00ebris\u00eb son\u00eb, p\u00ebrmes<\/p>\n

tregimeve p\u00ebr kryetrimin. Shqiptar\u00ebt e Kosov\u00ebs dhe trojeve t\u00eb tjera shqiptare<\/p>\n

shihnin dhe m\u00eb shum\u00eb \u00ebndrra t\u00eb tilla. Ata t\u00eb pak\u00ebt q\u00eb vinin ato mote me siguri<\/p>\n

q\u00eb prisnin kostumin e ri p\u00ebr t\u00eb qen\u00eb \u201cdh\u00ebnd\u00ebr\u201d t\u00eb Kruj\u00ebs. Na kujtohet m\u00ebsues<\/p>\n

Ismeti nga Malisheva, q\u00eb zhbimja milloshevi\u00e7iane e kishte sjell\u00eb n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri, i<\/p>\n

cili e kujtonte me nostalgji vizit\u00ebn q\u00eb kishte pas b\u00ebr\u00eb n\u00eb Kruj\u00eb aty nga 80-a.<\/p>\n

Ndaj zor se do t\u00eb ket\u00eb guid\u00eb q\u00eb do ta z\u00ebr\u00eb ndonj\u00ebher\u00eb Kruj\u00ebn t\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00ebn brenda<\/p>\n

vetes. Por \u00e7far\u00eb do t\u00eb themi t\u00eb re n\u00eb k\u00ebto sh\u00ebnime, kur \u00ebsht\u00eb folur aq shum\u00eb?<\/p>\n

Ndoshta gj\u00ebja m\u00eb e ve\u00e7ant\u00eb e koh\u00ebve t\u00eb fundit \u00ebsht\u00eb restaurimi i Pazarit t\u00eb<\/p>\n

Kruj\u00ebs, i cili shtrihet n\u00eb 170 metra linear. V\u00ebrtet nuk duket shum\u00eb p\u00ebr rreth<\/p>\n

60-70 dyqane antikuaresh artistike dhe artizanale, por \u00ebsht\u00eb autenticiteti q\u00eb i<\/p>\n

p\u00ebrcakton vlerat e tij. Pazari i Kruj\u00ebs \u00ebsht\u00eb m\u00eb i vjetri n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri sipas<\/p>\n

specialist\u00ebve t\u00eb monumenteve, t\u00eb cil\u00ebt dhe jan\u00eb kujdesur q\u00eb gjat\u00eb restaurimit<\/p>\n

gjith\u00e7ka t\u00eb jet\u00eb n\u00eb vendin e duhur. \u00c7far\u00eb nuk t\u00eb rrok syri? T\u00eb jesh k\u00ebtu<\/p>\n

thjesht\u00eb sodit\u00ebs \u00ebsht\u00eb pak, jasht\u00ebzakonisht pak. Nj\u00eb enografi e pashembullt<\/p>\n

shpalohet, nga librat e hersh\u00ebm te nagantat e dy shekujve m\u00eb par\u00eb,<\/p>\n

qeleshepunuesit dhe qilimapunueset, q\u00eb jan\u00eb mbase dhe tradita krutane m\u00eb e<\/p>\n

spikatur. Njeri nga vizitor\u00ebt p\u00ebrzgjedh n\u00eb qilimat e punuar me art, pasi nuk i<\/p>\n

p\u00eblqen tapetet, kurse neve na shkrep n\u00ebse vazhdon dhe Luma t\u00eb thur\u00eb qilimat e<\/p>\n

saj origjinal\u00eb? Tezgjahu \u00ebsht\u00eb aty si p\u00ebr treguar se \u00e7do gj\u00eb k\u00ebtu \u00ebsht\u00eb \u201cbio\u201d<\/p>\n

dhe jo ndryshe. N\u00eb tradit\u00eb jan\u00eb dhe sendet e punuara n\u00eb baker, q\u00eb turist\u00ebt i<\/p>\n

marrin me vete p\u00ebr t\u00eb stolisur vilat apo restorantet. Shqiponja \u00ebsht\u00eb futur<\/p>\n

kudo, nga qeleshet e bardha, shalli i qaf\u00ebs e gjer prer\u00ebsrja e thonjve, sa ti<\/p>\n

mendon a thua po teprohet n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb? \u00cbsht\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u2019u vler\u00ebsuar kthimi<\/p>\n

dinjitoz te tradita pa deformime e shartesa, ku jo vet\u00ebm pazare t\u00eb tilla<\/p>\n

historike e b\u00ebjn\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb, apo muzeu etnografik brenda brenda n\u00eb kala, por dhe nj\u00eb<\/p>\n

njeri i vet\u00ebm, Shtjefen Ivezaj n\u00eb Tuz q\u00eb e ka kthyer sht\u00ebpin\u00eb e tij fund e krye<\/p>\n

n\u00eb muze etnografik dhe vet\u00eb fle n\u00eb ballkon, apo poeti Gjon Gjergjaj n\u00eb Klin\u00eb<\/p>\n

(Kosov\u00eb) q\u00eb gjithashtu kull\u00ebn e ka kthyer n\u00eb nj\u00eb fole t\u00eb relikteve<\/p>\n

t\u00eb vjetra shqiptare mjaft pikante. Kruja t\u00eb zgjon mendime e ndjesi dhe p\u00ebrtej t\u00eb sotmes.<\/p>\n

K\u00ebrkon me sy si tridhjet\u00eb vite m\u00eb par\u00eb Haxhi Gocin, nj\u00eb studiues i p\u00ebrvut\u00eb i<\/p>\n

kultur\u00ebs krutane, kurbinase e m\u00eb tej, i cili nuk mund t\u00eb na pres\u00eb m\u00eb si dikur…<\/p>\n

por ja tek shfaqet para nesh nj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr njoh\u00ebs i k\u00ebsaj kulture, Baki Dollma,<\/p>\n

m\u00ebsues dhe studiues i moshuar, librat e t\u00eb cilit i sheh t\u00eb ekspozuar n\u00eb hyrje t\u00eb<\/p>\n

kalas\u00eb.<\/p>\n

\u201cKruj\u00eb, o qytet i bekuar…\u201d K\u00ebshtu nis poema e famshme e Naimit p\u00ebr<\/p>\n

Sk\u00ebnderbeun. Por tashm\u00eb secili nga ne ka poem\u00ebn e tij t\u00eb Kruj\u00ebs, t\u00eb shkruar dhe<\/p>\n

t\u00eb pashkruar. Kruja \u00ebsht\u00eb nj\u00eb sovrane e historis\u00eb son\u00eb, si\u00e7 na e paraqet dhe<\/p>\n

romani \u201cKrasta Kraus\u201d (Kreshta e Kruj\u00ebs) i shkrimtarit disident Bilal Xhaferri.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb Kruj\u00eb jan\u00eb shtres\u00ebzuar brezat dhe kulturat. Inxhinieri i pyjeve Hysen Kuqi<\/p>\n

ishte shuar n\u00eb pyjet e Qaf\u00eb Shtam\u00ebs, por tridhjet\u00eb vjet m\u00eb par\u00eb ne do t\u00eb njihnim<\/p>\n

t\u00eb atin e tij plak, Memin, me sht\u00ebpin\u00eb n\u00eb krye t\u00eb qytetit, nj\u00eb ish-tregtar i<\/p>\n

vjet\u00ebr vendas, mbi profilin e menduar t\u00eb t\u00eb cilit koha e socializmit nuk kishte<\/p>\n

l\u00ebn\u00eb asnj\u00eb gjurm\u00eb. Ai sikur kishte mbetur atje n\u00eb bot\u00ebn e tij t\u00eb dikurshme prej<\/p>\n

tregtari, zanat q\u00eb e kishte ushtruar dhe n\u00eb Tiran\u00eb, ku sot rrojn\u00eb pasardh\u00ebsit e<\/p>\n

tij nip\u00ebr e mbesa. Regjimi i lejonte Kruj\u00ebs vet\u00ebm t\u00eb vjetr\u00ebn q\u00eb lidhej me<\/p>\n

atdhetarin\u00eb, po jo dhe me tregtin\u00eb, pasi kjo<\/p>\n

pillte kapitalizmin. Nuk kishte delegacion qeveritar t\u00eb huaj q\u00eb nuk vizitonte Kruj\u00ebn.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb mjediset e kalas\u00eb, me kull\u00ebn e lart\u00eb n\u00eb sfund valltar\u00ebt e Ansamblit t\u00eb Shtetit xhironin<\/p>\n

klipet e koh\u00ebs. Nga veranda e Hotel-Turizmit ishte nj\u00eb k\u00ebnaq\u00ebsi poetike t\u00eb kundroje<\/p>\n

fush\u00ebn e pamat\u00eb e gjer detin. Kruja n\u00eb at\u00eb koh\u00eb identifikohej jo m\u00eb me pajtorin<\/p>\n

e vet shpirt\u00ebror, por me kalan\u00eb, Sk\u00ebnderbeun, muzeun e tij pozant dhe pazarin<\/p>\n

karakteristik, q\u00eb nuk kishte patur fatin e keq t\u00eb atij t\u00eb Shkodr\u00ebs t\u00eb prishej.<\/p>\n

Vendi me histori kishte nxjerr\u00eb shkrimtar\u00eb, gazetar\u00eb, diplomat\u00eb, jurist\u00eb t\u00eb<\/p>\n

d\u00ebgjuar dhe libri ishte nj\u00eb p\u00ebrmas\u00eb e qytetit. Nuk e di sa \u00ebsht\u00eb sot i pranish\u00ebm<\/p>\n

libri artistik n\u00eb institucionet e shtetit (dyshoj se jo!), teksa asokohe jo<\/p>\n

vet\u00ebm biblioteka e qytetit, po dhe zyra e prokurorit t\u00eb Rrethit kishte veprat e<\/p>\n

Naimit, Samiut, Nolit, Migjenit, \u00c7abejt, p\u00ebrfshi dhe serit\u00eb me lidhje speciale<\/p>\n

t\u00eb botuara n\u00eb Kosov\u00eb.<\/p>\n

Kruja kishte gjithashtu dhe t\u00eb ikurit e vet p\u00ebrtej Adriatikut, ku nj\u00ebri sosh ishte dhe<\/p>\n

babai i Ana Oxas, k\u00ebng\u00ebtares s\u00eb njohur italiane t\u00eb San Remos, q\u00eb mediat italiane<\/p>\n

ndonj\u00ebher\u00eb e kan\u00eb p\u00ebrfolur si mbes\u00eb t\u00eb diktarorit shqiptar Hoxha?!<\/p>\n

Dhe nj\u00eb mbres\u00eb t\u00eb fundit. Sa her\u00eb veja n\u00eb Kruj\u00eb n\u00eb vitet \u201980 te njer\u00ebzit e mi, q\u00eb ishin<\/p>\n

b\u00ebr\u00eb pjes\u00eb e atij qyteti me vite, ndalesha te nj\u00eb krua i vog\u00ebl n\u00eb mes t\u00eb pallateve, vija dor\u00ebn n\u00eb gur\u00eb e pija me andje (duke besuar se dhe emri i qytetit vinte nga krua), uji i t\u00eb cilit me siguri<\/p>\n

buronte atje lart, ku p\u00ebrhapte mir\u00ebsi Sari Salltiku hirnor n\u00eb paqe me bot\u00ebn.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ndue Dedaj   Mali i Kruj\u00ebs, 1176metra i lart\u00eb, i ka t\u00eb gjitha p\u00ebrmasat, dhe hyjnoren e madhnueshme, dhe bukurin\u00eb shk\u00ebmbore t\u00eb thepisur si askund, me nj\u00eb r\u00ebnie pingule t\u00eb thikt\u00eb mbi qytet, ku dhe alpinist\u00ebt zor se do t\u00eb mund t\u00eb ngjiteshin e ku gur\u00ebt e m\u00ebdhenj t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb fusin frik\u00ebn se mos…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4983,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[15],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5139","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-histori-gjeografi"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5139","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5139"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5139\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5140,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5139\/revisions\/5140"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/4983"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5139"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5139"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistakuvendi.org\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5139"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}